Sometimes, in Cambodia, the jingling sound of a xylophone wakes you up at an ungodly hour. These soft melody lines act as a sinister harbinger of what’s about to come: the mournful chants of a funeral.

If you look really hard, you’ll find remnants of the golden rock ‘n’ roll era, when Cambodia was called “the pearl of Southeast Asia”. In the art city of Battambang, in the northwest, there is a remaining silent witness of the 1960s.

The WWF wants to reintroduce the tiger in Cambodia. But that’s easier said than done. Even in so-called protected nature reserves, illegal logging and hunting are going on.